UPDATE 1: If you replace the frame on a bike, is that a replacement, or a new bike?
When I re-tapped the threads on my Genesis’ bottom bracket, they tore out after 1.5 miles of riding. After a lot of research and patience, a new frame from Nashbar was my best option. Their “CX” frame had the cantilever posts I wanted, so this box from UPS is it.
Upon inspection, the maker is Kinesis, the same as my road bike (Windsor brand, Fens model). The geometry is almost identical. The difference is disc mounts, canti mounts, and black paint. The geometry is almost the same as my Genesis too – same top tube, shorter head and seat tubes by an inch, same chainstays.
It took 5.5 hours to ream, face, and install headset, transfer all of the parts including forks, then adjust everything. The head tube was already reamed, so very little was removed, other than paint on the top side. I installed the cups with wood blocks and a brass hammer. My thick head didn’t really realize I should have just used the reamer handles to screw against wood blocks for a compression fit. Whatever. It all fits and is flush.
I forgot my right shifter needs to be reassembled, so I still can’t get into 1st gear, but that’s okay. I swapped back to the 40 degree stem, but it’s still not quite right. Maybe the bottom race isn’t smacked down enough. I’ll have to re-mount this to take up some slack in the upper bearings.
I forgot that the frame doesn’t have a kickstand mount, so now I have 2 bikes that fall over. I have some wood under the porch I can probably make a rack out of, but there’s no real room to hang these and still fit the car in the garage.
OH, I just found that the old bike frame makes a really nice bike stand.
UPDATE 2: Here’s the rebuild. It’s a Nashbar CX 60cm frame (21″ top tube, 24″ seat tube, 700x35c spacing, canti and disc mounts (I have Deore 550 canti brakes). Drivetrain is XT 752 rear der, FSA Vero compact double (about tiagra level, with square taper). Levers are all metal, but shifters are SRAM MRX grips (whole cassette at once!).
Fork is Fuji FC770 (carbon forks with aluminum steerer) with an FSA Big Pig headset. Bars are Orbea Cat III carbon with an Avenir 40 degree 120mm stem (lighter and more rise than the matching Orbea stem). Seat is a Cloud 9 from sunight. it’s heavy, dorky, and great for really long rides.
I need to re-weigh it, but I think it’s about 30 pounds with the 5-pound tool bag (spare tube, lots of tools, spare chain, etc). I’m 265LBS, so I don’t really care about the weight. In all of my testing, performance really is mostly the parts, geometry, posture, and my own stamina.
UPDATE 3: New build is 30.4 pounds with tools, spares, etc but not bottles.
Totally frankenbike, but my only complaint right now is that I need to rebuild or replace the right shifter, and figure out a stand for it (no kickstand). It’s a great CX-Hybrid (CX for mountain parts, wider tires, and cantilever brakes on a road frame, and hybrid for flat bars on a road frame).
Belkin F6C1500-tw-rk installed.
USB to the Windows based backup server which will shutdown if power is off for 30 seconds or more.
RS232 to the Linux primary server which will shutdown at low-battery point.
Full load (modem, router, switch, both servers) is 25%.
Deep cycle test with this load dropped to 68% within 1 minute and 30% within 13 minutes.
I expect that the load without the Windows box would be about 18% of max, so I think 25 mins is a reasonable full-cycle expectation. Maybe more with the LCD in power-save mode.
At battery low warning, the linux box will shutdown, and the UPS should shut down at full depletion, which might be another 20 mins or so. Too bad the router won’t serve up dummy pages. :)
Both servers auto-power on if they’ve been unplugged, even if they were shutdown gracefully before.
The monitor should email or notify if any part of the UPS fails, or when the battery is due for replacement. (July 2, 2011).
I think this is an acceptable solution compared to instant death before, especially considering we get 3 brown-outs per week and one power loss per month here.