Bike Stuff

Lots of bike stuff done today.

The R600 from Mark is in good shape. Bearings “looked” good, but the old grease had shiny flakes. Replaced the bearings and grease. Cones and races looked fine. Braking surface is at probably 40%, so I scuffed it a little with a diamond file, and deburred it all around.

Replaced the missing spoke from the donor R550 and got lateral true in good shape. I’m not sure about dish, but it’s within 4mm. There’s 2mm hop (dip really), but I got tired of messing with it. The spoke nipples are at the hub, and I kept turning them the wrong direction. I think one of the spoke heads is going to pull through. It seemed a little deeper in it’s seat washer than the others.

I have to say this is just about the tightest rim I have ever mounted a tire on. First bead of a gator was painfully snug, and I couldn’t reposition the tire without popping it back over the rim. The second bead absolutely required a steel lever. On the flip side, it was really happy to take 120psi.


The R550 wheel is now missing 2 spokes, and the cone is damaged from the previous owner riding with the cones over-tightened. Also, one race had faint rust from having been wet, but it wiped out. I cleaned, repacked, and reset cone spacing. It’s as good as it can get without putting money into it. Basically, it’s a spare parts. It’s almost exactly the same as the R600 wheel, though the R600 axle, cones,and hub seem a tiny bit lighter, and the dustcap is black plastic vs chromed plastic. The 550 finish is bead blasted, vs the 600 which is mirror finish.


Helped mark install some new Ksyrium Elite wheels. Adjusted lateral true, and sent him for a 1.85mm spacer (11-speed hub, 10-speed cassette). Adjusted brake tension and rewrapped the bar tape from the hoods up. Test ride was good, and his speed sensor is working properly.


New black bike is coming together. Installed the replacement chainrings on my DurAce 180mm Square Taper (1990s?). XT pedals installed. Rival brakes are installed and adjusted. Wrong color of cables came, but Ice Grey is good with Ben. I wanted black-carbon but I’m settling for plain black. I need to install the speed/cadence sensor and the saddle bag from the old black bike.

The only parts I need are cables and rear wheel. The black cables show up tomorrow. I may be able to pick up an R10S rear from Ben on the promise of helping him build up his project bike when all the parts come in. We’ll see what a 20-spoke rear wheel is like with me on it, but ideally, it’d be temporary until my other wheels come back from Easton.

Then, all that’s left will be fit/comfort adjustments, and maybe throwing the wheels onto a truing stand.


Picked up a 17mm cone wrench, and have blue and mavic spoke wrenches on order. Also, ordered some cassette spacers for 10-on-11, 10-on-8/9/10, and another gigpack of shop towels.


Read Derailleur

Rear derailleur was acting up after a chain issue saturday.

Figured outnthe problem. The index adjustment screw was torn loose, so the indexing was off. Also, one of the pulleys was worn to nubs.

I swapped it for a Deore SGS M5591 I had in the parts pile for now. Same device, but a longer cage and a weaker spring. Should be fine, but I will probably get something with a clutch later.

It’s nice that mountain 9-speed RDs are interchangeable with road 10-speed.

Eventually, I may re-tap the threads on the rd-5700sg and replace the pulleys.


Wheels

I almost could not remove the cassette from my Easton SL70 road wheels All of the splines are notched after 200miles.

So I go to move the Mavic wheels over, and my Kinesis frame won’t take a 28mm tire.

I pull tge 28mm and the latex tubes weep so much fluid that it’s wet inside the casing, rim, under the rim tape, etc.

So, lots of lessons learned.

Easton does not service their own products. So I have to go to Cadence about it. Overall very dissat in these wheels. Should not have let Chad convince me to go with these.


5 milimeters

Such tiny changes make so much difference.

Handlebar height from axle is now only 1.5 cm lower on the white bike, so we will see if it works for my back.

I shuffled parts because the black bike would not take 180mm cranks without frame impacts. My old cranks are 175mm and the 5mm difference, or 10mm total in a circle, is huge.

My seat is set back 25mm and I am not sure if I will undo that yet, but the nose is uncomfy.

Thought I would need a short test but I will need 100-200 miles to see if 180mm is a good move.

Also, the non-shimano bottom bracket I pulled is so much better for square taper, but I really like the new hollow axle BB. I have an SRAM/Truativ GXP, which is very similar to Shimano Hollowtech. The wider bearing position is nice. Less flex.


Max’s Bike

So, I picked up a decent used bike as an upgrade for Max (he is taller now). It’s pretty nice: 7-speed cassette, 3 speed chainring, mountain bike 26″ wheels, flat aluminum bar, etc.

But there were no tubes. So, new tubes. Oops, there were too many thorns to remove from the tires… oh, and one tire was split… oh2, the front tire smelled like dead fish.

So I got new tires… and OMG, both tires have casting defects that make them oblong. WTF? *sigh*

So, I pull the box back out of recycling and stuffed it between the new bike and a table so I could pack them up and return them.

Unfortunately, this box was wide and flat, so it was cut up and turned into some sort of project while I was at work. *sigh2*

I’ve ordered some Schwinn tires that look hopeful, and have a road/trail tread that looks smooth but grippy, and wraps around part way down the sidewall. I plan to use the box they came in to ship the bad tires back, though the replacement tires won’t arrive until 2 days after Max’s b-day. *sigh3*

Well, at least he gets to have D&D with some friends over the weekend, and we hit up Great Wolf Lodge next week.

UPDATE: The Schwinn tires have a kevlar bead, so they’re rolled/folded up in a smaller box. EEK! I’ll never get to return these!