Patching Drywall

I’ve got reasonable experience with it, but nowhere near pro level. I’ll fix things in my house, though I don’t like the painting part. It’s just… it takes longer than I want it to, so small jobs suck. Big jobs are fine, because you do all the first-pass things, then come back for second pass without having to wait too much.

Anyway, here are some things that come to mind when I think about doing this.

0. Preparation! Scrape, clean, and mask the area with twice as much effort as you think it deserves. Also, um, those clothes that “you probably won’t get anything on” will totally have splatters.

1. Don’t be afraid to peel back some of the paper backing to keep it from being humped too high.

2. Finding a way to do the inside of the wall when it’s a big patch is really helpful for stability. Strings tied around things can help press from the inside, and hang a weight on the outside. You can also mount a support (paper tape, mesh tape, wood strips, whatever as appropriate. Don’t just mount tree branches in there though) inside of a large hole (can you fit your hand and a putty knife through the hole?), and let it dry, then use that as backing when you come back to put in the plug.

3. Fiberglass mesh tape is sometimes so much better than paper tape. It’s strings! It takes several coats to cover up though.

4. Once it looks dry-ish, stop messing with it. Once it starts peeling up or crumbling, you really just have to scrape it all out and start over. You can spritz it with water before and during to keep it from drying too fast if needed.

5. Sometimes you have to do a little, let it dry for half a day, then come back for the next part. There are limits to how much can be done at once and not have it crack.

6. Use as wide of a putty knife as you can. If you have a 3mm hump spread over 2″, you will notice it. If it’s spread over 6″, maybe not. I have a 12″ mud knife, and have actually used it before.

7. Texture often needs to be thinned. Paint works better than pure water for this, because it’s sticky, and not as thin. 50% paint+texture is a good starting point for a crow’s foot brush.

8. Overlapping is your friend. When spraying orange peel texture, I start small, and adjust until the blob sizes look just a little smaller than I want. Then, I go back and forth, overlapping the edges, until I cannot see the true edge anymore.

Bike Changes

In order to get the cranks off, I had to use WD40 and a brass machine hammer. No frame damage, and my BB doesn’t sound crunchy or seem bent. However, the FC2350 didn’t make it.

Ordered new cranks. I’m sticking with 50/34 110BCD JIS 175mm, but went FSA to save about 6 ounces. I also have a FC2303 on order for a future experiment (52/39 130BCD 175mm). These both should work with my existing FD, plus the road FD I have in reserve.

Since my replacement cranks don’t show up until Friday, I decided to repaint my bike. 2 days will be enough cure time that I can reassemble things without scratching the paint too badly.

Sanded moderately well, but not to bare metal everywhere. Left the headset races installed. Paint grey etching primer over exposed metal, teal gloss primer 2 coats over everything, 4 coats of midnight metallic blue, and 2 coats of metallic hunter green.

It’s sort of a swishy/swirl of blue/green. I like it other than 2 runs I’ll sand and re-hit when I get more paint. If I decide to stick with this color, I may dismantle it again and clearcoat it a few times.

Existing fork is steel, so I didn’t repaint it. My Fuji carbon fork also shows up on Friday.

On Friday, I’ll clean out the BB threads and the headset races, then reassemble everything including my new headset (cartridge bearings).

I’ll see about a photo, but it actually looks black from a distance.

2013-10-02 Lunch Ride and Bike Changes

Lunch ride, but my back gave out on me later in the day. I didn’t get to do the TXF or CCC ride. :/ I stripped my bike down though, due to the BB coming loose. Then, I stripped out the crank arm threads. *sigh* I have to wait for a new crankset, so I decided I would repaint my bike in the mean time. It’s a mottled dark blue/green metallic color now, though the forks did not get paint. I think my Fuji FC-770 CX 700c forks at 795g come in tomorrow, and they are gloss black carbon fiber. Also found my bike frame really is pretty light. Once the paint has cured a day or two, I’d like to weigh it. I have 2 runs I will need to sand and repaint, but I have to wait for color match paint. They’re on long tubes, so I’ll just block off the surrounding areas.

Distance: 4.56 mi
Calories: 237 C

Time: 28:07
Moving Time: 27:45
Elapsed Time: 1:32:17

Avg Speed: 9.7 mph
Avg Moving Speed: 9.9 mph
Max Speed: 28.9 mph

Elevation Gain: 200 ft
Elevation Loss: 128 ft
Min Elevation: 541 ft
Max Elevation: 624 ft

Avg HR: 109 bpm 59 % of Max
Max HR: 162 bpm 88 % of Max

Avg Power: 81 W
Max Power: 1,185 W
Max Avg Power (20 min): 80 W

Avg Bike Cadence: 53 rpm
Max Bike Cadence: 97 rpm

Avg Temperature: 87.6 °F
Min Temperature: 82.4 °F
Max Temperature: 91.4 °F