See also:
* [http://omnitech.net/soapmaking/supplies/ Supplies and Equipment] – [http://omnitech.net/soapmaking/ingredients/ Ingredients] – [http://omnitech.net/soapmaking/lessons-learned/ Lessons Learned]
* [http://omnitech.net/soapmaking/first-batch/ First Batch] – [http://omnitech.net/soapmaking/second-batch/ Second Batch] – [http://omnitech.net/soapmaking/third-batch/ Third Batch]

===Primary Oils===
* 1-8% Beeswax – hardens soap, Prevents `Ash`, reduces lather, accelerates trace – yellow color – good with lemongrass and honey
* 8% Castor oil (more is sticky – increases foam)
* Olive oil is more gentle but takes 4x longer for harden and cure. Leaks oil during cure. Doesn’t gel.
* Pomace Olive Oil traces/hardens much more quickly
* Palm oil makes a harder soap
* 20% pine tar – 20 seconds to trace. CPOP overnight 200F preheat then off. Self-heats (no milk!) very long cure (harden) (4-8wks)

”’Hard, Bubbles, Cleansing”’
* Lard makes for lots of bubbles
* Coconut oil is drying so superfat
* Palm Kernel Oil
* Babassau
* 1 TBSP sugar per pound of oil (increases suds when no coconut oil available)

===Preservatives===
* T-50 Tocopherol Vitamin E prevents rancidity (pure liquid only)
* Grapefruit Seed Extract – Also prevents rancidity (pure liquid only)
* Sodium Benzoate is a food grade preservative – can prevent DOS.

===Caustic===
* Measure stochiometrically
* Potassium Hydroxide (PotAsh) is a softer soap, more like a cream. More water soluable.
* NaCl will swap ions with KOH based soaps to harden them.
* Potassium Carbonate keeps soap soft after trace for easy stir (best for liquids)
* Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) is a harder soap, less soluable in water
* Sodium Carbonate – Precipitates calcium from tapwater to prevent soap scum. Softens water, but reduces lather. `Washing Soda`

===Water===
* CP Water is 1.1x lye for 100% olive
* CP Water is 2x lye for hard fats
* HP Use 2.5 to 3x for hot process due to evap during cook
* Use 3x to 4x for slower trace & cure, softer bar, more shrink

”’Milk”’
* Slow mix caustic to prevent scorching.
* Keep oils from overheating to prevent scorching.

===Dry Additives===
* 1 heaping tablespoon per 5 pounds
* Add at trace.
* Pre-Mix in liquid to prevent clumping.
* Borax is a good washing additive

===Coloring===
* Powdered chlorophyl – Green coloring – don’t use liquid or risk rancidity
* turmeric – yellow coloring
* Cinnamon – purple coloring if gelled, or brownish if not.
* Paprika and Annato – orange color
* Cocoa powder – dark brown
* Tea and coffee – Brewed longer & tannins make darker color
* Tea leaves – soak/brew first to prevent bleeding into soap
* Black walnut hulls – purple, finely ground, also exfoliating.
* Carrot juice – complete water replacement. Yellow-orange
* Dry Red Wine – < =50% water replacement - pale pink. ** Grape juice has too much sugar ant makes the soap crumbly. ** High alcohol can cause the soap to seize ** Boiled down to a syrup is a nice swirl/colorant * Titanium dioxide - very white ===Exfoliants=== * Poppy seeds * Slow Oats * Almond meal * Corn Grits